Dry Brine - Julia Child's Salt Marinade with Herbs for Pork

Dry brining is the latest and greatest method to improve both the texture and flavor of meat.  But Julia Child was onto this idea in 1961.  This recipe for a “salt marinade” comes from Mastering the Art of French Cooking and is a dry brine in today’s terminology.  Clearly dry brining is not a new technique!  I have used this on pork chops (as pictured) where I let the pork marinate for 2-4 hours, and on a pork roast where I let the meat marinate for 24 hours or more.  

I have also used this on lamb, substituting rosemary for the thyme or sage.  Feel free to experiment.

Note: I grind the dried herbs in a spice grinder, and purchase ground bay leaf from Pendery’s.

Ingredients Per Pound of Pork:

• 1 teaspoon salt (I used Kosher)
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon ground thyme or sage
• 1/8 teaspoon ground bay leaf
• 1/2 clove munched garlic
• 1/8 teaspoon allspice, optional

Directions:

1. Mix all the ingredients together and rub them into the surface of the pork.
   
   
   
   
2. Cover and place in the refrigerator for 2-24 hours.
3. Before cooking, scrape off the marinade and dry the pork thoroughly with paper towels and grill or roast as desired.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Blueberry Crumb Cake

The recipe for this cake comes from Maida Heatter’s Book of Great Desserts.  I had never made it, until I was inspired to do so by Deb Perelman at Smitten Kitchen.  I am fortunate to have a copy of Book of Great Desserts since, according to Deb Perelman, it is currently out of print.  I’ve made the lemon cake from this book many times, but never the blueberry crumb cake.  That is a shame because this cake is excellent, and a perfect vehicle to showcase the delicious in-season blueberries we have now in Kentucky.

Deb Perelman made a minor change to the ingredient list, she added more blueberries than called for in the original recipe.  I think that is a good idea, and added more as well.

This serves 9.

Ingredients:

Topping:

• 1/3 cup 1 1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 cup (4 tablespoons or 1/2 stick) unsalted butter melted

Cake:

• 2 cups of blueberries (I used more - 16 ounces or about 2 2/3 cups)
• 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup (4 tablespoons or 1/2 stick) unsalted butter at cool room temperature
• 3/4 cup (5 1/4 ounces) sugar
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 cup milk (I used whole)
• grated rind of one lemon
• 1/2 cup walnuts, chopped (optional - I did not use them)
• Confectioners sugar for dusting the top

Directions:

1. Adjust rack to the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. Butter and flour a 9 inch square baking pan.  I also suggest lining it with parchment paper.

For the topping:

1. Mix together the flour, sugar and cinnamon in a small bow
2. Mix in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs and set aside.

For the cake:

1. Pick over and wash the berries.  Drain and turn them out onto a towel to dry completely.
2. Sift (or whisk) together the flour, baking powder and salt in a small bowl.
3. In a medium bowl of an electric mixer (I used a hand held mixer,  not my stand mixer) cream the butter, sugar and vanilla un til the mixture is smooth and fluffy, about 4-5 minutes.
4. Add the egg and mix for one minute more.
   
5. On the lowest speed, alternately add the dry ingredients in three additions and the milk in two additions, scraping with a rubber spatula and mixing only until smooth after each addition.
   
   
   
6. Stir in the lemon rind.
7. Gently fold in the blueberries, the batter will be stiff.
   
8. Turn the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
   
9. Sprinkle walnuts over the top (if using) and then sprinkle on the reserve topping evenly.
   
10. Bake for 40-50 minutes until the top in browned and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
    
11. Set aside to cool for about an hour.
12. Cut around the sides of the cake to loosen, cover the top tightly with a piece of foil to contain the topping, and invert over a cooling rack and remove the pan.
13. Invert the cake again onto a plate.
14. Dust with confectioners sugar, and enjoy!
    

Slow-Cooker Split Pea Soup

This recipe comes from Cook’s Country. It is both easy and delicious.  While it is not quick, it requires very little effort to put together and no time to watch. I didn’t think I liked split pea soup until I made this. I had some unpleasant memories related to the Exorcist and LInda Blair's head spinning.....

I have an All-Clad slow-cooker with a stovetop safe insert so I skip the microwave step to cook the onions in the original recipe. I think this recipe would also work well in an Insta-Pot.

If the soup is too thick for your taste, just add more water (or chicken stock) if desired. According to Cook's Country, This recipe makes 6-8 servings, and has 540 calories based on 6 servings.

Ingredients:

• 2 onions, chopped
• 1 celery rib, minced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• Salt & pepper
• 7 cups water
• 1 lb. split peas, picked over and ribsed
• 1 lb ham steak, rind removed and quartered
• 1 ham hock (12 oz)
• 2 bay leaves
  
  
  
  

Directions:

1. Cook onions, celery, garlic, thyme, red pepper flakes, salt & pepper in butter until onion is softened in a stovetop safe slow-cooker insert.  This may be done in a covered bowl in the microwave or in a skillet on the stove.
   
   
   
   
2. Add water, split peas, ham steak, ham hock, and bay leaves to slow-cooker.  
   
3. Cover and cook on low for 8-9 hours or high for 5-6 hours.
   
   
   
   
4. Transfer ham steak pieces to plate and discard ham hock and bay leaves.
5. Whisk soup vigorously until peas are broken down and soup thickens, about 30 seconds.
   
6. Shred ham with two forks into bite size pieces and add back to soup.
   
   
   
   
7. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

White Chili

I had white chili for the first time many, many years ago at Timothy’s Cafe and Restaurant in Louisville.  Timothy’s is long gone, but their recipe lives on.  It was published by both Bon Appetit and the Courier-Journal.  The recipe here is based upon the original recipe from the restaurant. 

For the 4 cups of chicken listed in the recipe, you can substitute the chicken meat from a rotisserie chicken, or a bag of rotisserie chicken breast meat from Costco, picked over.

Garnish the chili with grated Monterey Jack cheese, salsa, and sour cream.

Makes about 4 1/2 quarts, serving 8-10

Ingredients:

• 1 large onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon oil
• 2 4-ounce cans chopped green chilis
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 1/2 teaspoons oregano
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Salt
• 6 cups chicken stock
• 4 cans pinto beans, drained and rinsed
• 4 cups cooked chicken breast, cut up (4 bone-in skin on chicken breasts will yield about 4 cups of cooked meat)
  

Directions:

1. Saute the onions with the oil over medium heat in a large dutch oven (I used a Le Creuset #26) until tender, about 10-12 minutes.
   
2. Add the garlic, green chilis, cumin, oregano, pepper, and salt and cook for another few minutes.
   
3. Add the chicken stock and 1/2 of the beans.
   
4. Puree the mixture using an immersion blender or by transferring the mixture to a regular blender, until mostly smooth.  This serves to thicken the chili, but you can skip this step if desired.
   
5. Add the rest of the beans and the chicken, and simmer for about 30 minutes.  
   

Roasted Sausages and Grapes

This recipe is from Cucina Simpatica by Johanne Killeen & George German, the owners/chefs of Al Forno in Providence, RI. Al Forno is one of my favorite restaurants ever. This dish is a classic and has been on the menu for over 30 years. It is both easy and delicious.  I was doubtful, Italian sausages and cooked grapes?  Just make it, it is both really delicious and really easy. They suggest serving it with mashed potatoes. I usually serve it with crusty bread, but I think that cheesy polenta would be an excellent side. Leftovers (if you have any) make a great sandwich with some arugula on a crusty pug roll from Blue Dog Bakery.

This serves 6-8, I halved it in the photos here since I was cooking for only two. My husband prefers mild Italian sausages versus the hot. The sausages here came from Red Hog.

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 pounds hot Italian sausage (about 4 links)
• 1 1/2 pounds mild Italian sausage (about 4 links)
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 6-7 cups (2 1/2 pounds) red or green seedless grapes, stems removed
• 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees.
2. Parboil the sausages in water to cover for 8-10 minutes to rid them of excess fat.  This may be done ahead.
   
3. Melt the butter in a large flameproof roasting pan, add the grapes and toss well.
   
   
   
   
4. With tongs, transfer the sausages the roasting pan, nestling them down into the grapes.
   
5. Roast for 20-25 minutes, turning the sausages half way through, until the sausages have browned.
   
6. Transfer the sausages and grapes to a heated serving platter with a slotted spoon.
   
7. Place the roasting pan over a medium high flame and add the balsamic vinegar.  Scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, and allow the vinegar and juices to reduce until they are thick and syrupy.
   
   
   
   
8. Pour the sauce over the sausages and grapes, and serve.
   

Lemon Chicken Breasts

This recipe is from The Barefoot Contessa How Easy is That?  I’ve made it a lot, because, well, it’s easy.  It’s also delicious.  It can be put together ahead and baked whenever.  The pan juices are great over rice or couscous.

Boneless chicken breasts with the skin on can be harder to find, you will most likely have to go to a butcher shop.  In Louisville, Red Hog Artisan Meat has them in the case, and Fresh Market and Paul's Market both have butchers that will bone a chicken breast and leave the skin on.  Whole Foods might do so as well, but I have never asked.  

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons minced garlic - 9 cloves (I only used 5, seemed enough to me)
• 1/3 cup dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon lemon zest from two lemons
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (I used the juice of one of the zested lemons, it measured about 3 tablespoons)
• 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon of minced thyme leaves
• Salt and pepper
• 4 skin on boneless chicken breasts
• 1 lemon

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
2. Heat the olive oil with the garlic in a small pan for a minute or two, but do not let the garlic brown.
   
3. Put the garlic & oil, white wine, lemon zest, lemon juice, oregano, thyme, and 1 teaspoon of salt into a 9 x 12 inch baking dish and stir.
   
4. Pat the chicken breasts dry and place them skin side up in the dish.
5. Brush the chicken with olive oil and season liberally with salt and pepper,
6. Cut the lemon into wedges and tuck among the chicken (I used the second zested lemon for this rather than an additional lemon).
7. Tuck some thyme sprigs among the chicken.
   
8. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes until the chicken is done (165 degrees) and the skin is browned.  If the skin is not browned, place under the broiler for a couple of minutes.
   
9. Allow to rest for 10 minutes and serve with the pan juices.  Ina directs you to cover the chicken during its rest, but I prefer not to since the skin will not stay crisp.